Herbs

	Harvesting
	Drying and Storage
	Herbs as Potted House Plants

In general, culinary herbs -- the herbs used to season food -- are very easy to grow and well-adapted to the home garden. A bountiful harvest can be secured with a minimum of care. A few short rows in the vegetable or flower garden, with only a few plants of each kind of herb, will add color and fragrance to the garden and will provide an adequate supply for the average family. Many culinary herbs are relatively free of damage due to diseases and insects.

Depending on the species, variety, and life cycle, herbs are divided into three groups: annual herbs include such plants as anise, basil, coriander, and dill; biennial herbs include caraway and sage; perennial herbs include chives, fennel, lovage, marjoram, mint, and thyme. In California's mild climate, some tender perennial herbs do quite well; whereas, in colder climates, they grow as annuals. For both annuals and perennials, spring is the usual season to plant herbs.

Table 9 - Culinary Herb Culture In the Home Garden and Their Uses - summarizes basic information about many common annual and perennial herbs grown in the home garden. When you plan your herb garden, factor in the growth habit of the individual herbs. Perennial herbs are best planted around the edges of the garden or in the flower border, if they are also ornamental. Plant the taller herbs in the background, with lower ones in front, near walks and paths. If you plant a large number of herbs, you may either set them in beds or in rows where you can irrigate and cultivate easily. Some herbs, such as chives, sweet marjoram, peppermint, summer savory, and thyme, adapt to small-scale culture in pots, boxes, nursery flats or other containers.

In the garden, group herbs according to their light requirements (full sun or partial shade) and choose a soil that is fertile, well-drained, and loamy for best results. Acid soils are unsuitable for most herbs. Herbs prefer a soil pH about 6.0 to 7.0. Prepare the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Give perennial herbs an area that will not be disturbed by tilling. Those herbs that spread by runners, such as the mints, should be given a large area or should be planted in containers to exercise some control. Mints spread rapidly, and parsley and fennel seed themselves, so they can become nuisances in the garden.

Herbs may be increased from seed, rooted cuttings or division of the mother plant. They may be started either indoors or outdoors. For small seeds, the easiest method is to sow them directly into peat pots filled with seed-starting mix, about 6 weeks before the last frost date. Cover seed with a thin layer of moist seed-starting mix or milled sphagnum moss, which has anti-fungal properties. Thin seedlings to 4 or 5 per pot. Larger seed may also be started by this method, then thinned to one plant per pot. Keep the soil surface moist by misting until plants are established.

Perennials may be started from seed or from cuttings. Root cuttings in a window box or other suitable container, preferably covered with plastic to maintain high humidity. Four or 5 inches of clean, coarse sand makes a satisfactory rooting medium. Keep the sand moist and keep plants out of direct sunlight when young to prevent wilting. In 4 to 6 weeks, move the cuttings to pots or coldframes for the winter.

Transplant all herb plants after danger of severe frost. Control weeds during the growing season to prevent competition for water and nutrients. A light mulch will conserve soil moisture and help control weeds. Irrigation may be necessary during periods of drought, though once established, many herbs are highly resistant to drought.

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Harvesting

Herb leaves, which are to be used fresh, may be picked whenever the plant has enough foliage to maintain continued growth. Most herbs for drying should be picked just before the flowers open, when the leaves contain the highest content of aromatic, volatile oils. The stems should be selected and cut individually about 6 inches below the flower buds. Remove dead or damaged leaves, and wipe off any dust or dirt. If the leaves are very dirty, they may be rinsed gently in cold water and dried with paper towels, or spray with a garden hose the day before harvesting. Discontinue harvesting leaves of perennials by late summer to allow the plants to store enough carbohydrates for overwintering.

You may save seed for culinary uses or for starting plants the next year by allowing the plants to mature completely. Harvest seed when they change in color from green to brown or grey and allow them to dry thoroughly before storing.

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Drying and Storage

Herbs may be dried by tying the cut stems in small bunches and hanging them in a well ventilated, low-dust, darkened room. Each bunch should be labeled, since dried herbs look pretty much the same. The best product will result if leaves are dried rapidly without artificial heat or exposure to sunlight. However, in the case of thick, succulent leaves, such as those of basil, rapid drying in an oven, dehydrator, or solar dryer may be the only method to retain color and maximum aromatic quality. If leaves are not too small, they may be removed from the stems and dried in a single layer on trays made of window screening or 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth. Label each herb. Stir the leaves gently once or twice a day to speed the drying operation.

When the drying process seems to be complete, remove the leaves from the stems or trays and place in sealed glass jars in a warm place for a week. At the end of that time, examine the jars to determine if any moisture has condensed on the inside of the glass. If it has, remove the contents and spread out for further drying. If necessary, the final drying may be completed by spreading the leaves on a cookie sheet in an oven set for 110^oF or less. Herb leaves are dry when they become brittle, and will crumble into powder when rubbed between the hands. If you prefer to use herbs in powdered or ground form, crush the leaves with a rolling pin, pass them through a fine sieve, or grind them in a blender or with a mortar and pestle.

Store herbs in air-tight bottles, preferably brown glass, in as cool a place as possible out of direct sunlight. By using air-tight containers the herbs will retain their essential oils and flavors.

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Herbs as Potted House Plants

Most small-sized herb plants may be grown in 4- to 6-inch pots as house plants. When given loving care in a sunny window, they will supply sprigs for culinary use throughout the year. If an enclosed porch or sunroom is available, larger herbs may be grown. Some of the best to try are basil, sweet marjoram, oregano, rosemary, thyme and bay laurel (Laurus nobilis). Start potted plants from seed, cuttings or divisions in midsummer, or, if available, dig young, vigorous plants from the garden and pot them, being sure to hose off any insects or eggs that might be present.

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