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Planning Your Vegetable Garden
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| Vegetable Crop | Days from Planting to Maturity Under Optimum Growing Conditions |
Days from Pollination to Maturity Under Warm Growing Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| Bean | 48 to 60 | 7 to 10 |
| Beet | 55 to 70 | n/a |
| Broccoli | 90 to 110 | n/a |
| Cabbage | 65 to 120 | n/a |
| Carrot | 120 to 150 | n/a |
| Cauliflower | 90 to 110 | n/a |
| Celery (transplanted crop) |
90 | n/a |
| Corn, sweet | 65 to 95 | 18 to 23 (from 50% silking) |
| Cucumber (pickling) |
50 to 60 | 4 to 5 |
| Cucumber (slicing) |
60 to 75 | 15 to 18 |
| Eggplant (transplanted crop) |
60 to 80 | 25 to 40 (2/3 max. size) |
| Kohlrabi | 50 to 60 | n/a |
| Lettuce,head | 70 to 90 | n/a |
| Lettuce, leaf | 40 to 50 | n/a |
| Muskmelon | 85 to 95 | 42 to 46 |
| Okra | 50 to 60 | 4 to 6 |
| Onion, dry | 90 to 150 | n/a |
| Onion, green | 50 to 60 | n/a |
| Pepper (transplanted crop) |
65 to 80 | 45 to 55 (green stage, about max. size) 60 to 70 (red stage) |
| Potato | 90 to 120 | n/a |
| Pumpkin | 100 to 120 | 65 to 90 (varies with variety) |
| Radish | 21 to 30 | n/a |
| Spinach | 40 to 50 | n/a |
| Squash, summer | 50 to 60 | 4 to 6 |
| Squash, winter | 85 to 110 | 60 to 90 (varies with variety) |
| Tomato (transplanted crop) |
60 to 80 | 35 to 45 (mature green stage) 45 to 60 (red ripe stage) |
| Turnip | 45 to 75 | n/a |
| Watermelon | 85 to 95 | 42 to 45 |
Trellising and staking. Do not grow horizontally what you can grow
vertically. Twining crops, such as tomato, squash, cucumber, and pole
beans, use a great deal of space when allowed to grow along the ground.
Trellises, stakes, or other supports minimize the ground space used and
increase garden productivity. Support materials can consist of wood, extra
stakes, twine, or a nearby fence.
Improved varieties may be the best way for the space-conscious
gardener to achieve higher yields. Today, a gardener can select bush varieties
of beans, cucumbers, melons and squash that require much less space than
standard varieties. Determinant tomatoes (those that grow only to a certain
height) can be trained more easily to a stake. Several small-fruited tomato
varieties are suited to container culture on patios or other small spaces.
For each crop listed in the cultivation guide included in this chapter,
space-saving, improved varieties are noted.
Succession planting consists of sowing seeds of a given crop at
1- to 2-week intervals to produce a continuous supply of vegetables. Beans,
turnips, and beets are well suited to this practice.
Companion planting is the planting of two crops in the same place
at the same time. Normally one crop matures and is harvested before the
other one. Radishes and carrots work well this way, since the radishes
can be harvested well before the carrots are very large. The quick-growing
radish seedlings also help to mark planted rows.
Intercropping involves planting early-maturing crops between the
rows of late-maturing crops to increase production in a small area. For
example, beans, radishes, green onions, spinach, or leaf lettuce may be
planted between rows of tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, or corn. The quicker-maturing
crops will be harvested before the others become very large.
Proper spacing between rows and within rows is extremely important.
Table 2 Vegetable Gardening at a Glance:
How to Plant and Store lists standard spacing for each crop. However,
different spacings may be required in your garden. The use of power equipment
will require that the distance between rows exceed the width of the equipment.
Maximum production will require that you disregard standard row and plant
spacings and utilize wide rows or beds for planting. For instance, seeds
of many crops, such as leaf lettuce or beets, can be broadcast in a bed
1 to 3 feet across and thinned to obtain proper spacing. Other crops,
such as cabbage or broccoli, can be planted closely in wide rows so that
their outer leaves will touch one another when the plants are about three-fourths
mature. These methods reduce space wasted as aisles, and often provide
such dense shade that weed growth is inhibited and evaporation of soil
moisture is reduced.
Raised beds are often helpful in maximizing plant growing space
in a garden. They provide the advantages noted above for wide beds, Plus
they can be used to optimize soil otherwise poorly suited for vegetables.
Raised beds can be achieved by adding large amounts of topsoil or organic
soil amendments so that a bed is established above the previous soil level.
Raised beds also lend themselves well to the use of plastic mulch, furrow
irrigation, and improved drainage, if needed.
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Plant enough of each vegetable crop to meet your family's needs for fresh,
stored, and preserved supplies. Table 2,
Vegetable Gardening at a Glance: How to Plant and Store, recommends an
amount to plant for a family of four. When choosing vegetable varieties
or hybrids, consider such factors as disease resistance, maturity date,
compactness of plant, and the size, shape, and color of the vegetable
desired. Keep in- mind past experiences with a given variety and corn,
ties with your favorites. Information in this chapter as wen as compare
new varieties seed catalogs may be helpful, or you can contact your county
Cooperative Extension farm advisor for help in selecting varieties suited
to your area.
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It is best to plan on paper before planting your garden. A well-planned
garden can provide fresh or preserved vegetables for use all year. The
plan should contain crops and amounts to be planted, dates of planting
and estimated harvest, planting location for each crop specific spacing
between rows, and trellising or support required. (Consult Table
2, Vegetable Gardening at a Glance: How to Plant and Store, for planting
dates in your area of the state.) The plan will aid in buying supplies
and serve as a handy guide in timing planting during the season. First,
make a sketch of the garden area showing the dimensions of the garden.
Prepare a list of vegetables you want to &row. Then arrange the crops
in the garden according to the amounts you wish to grow, dates to be planted,
and space available. Plant perennial crops, such as rhubarb and asparagus,
to one side of the garden so that the plants are not disturbed by preparations
for future crops. Plant tall crops, such as corn and pole beans, on the
north side of the garden so that they will not shade low-growing crops.
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You only need a few, good quality tools for a small home garden.
Spade or spading fork. Use to turn the ground, to turn under organic
matter, and to break up large clumps of soil.
Rake. Use to smooth out the soil after spading and after preparing
the seedbed. You can also use it for clearing up rubbish and removing
small weeds.
Hoe. Use to remove tough weeds and to cover seeds after planting.
When turned sideways, you can also use a hoe to dig a V-shaped row for
planting.
Yardstick, twine, and stakes. Use to get rows evenly spaced and
laid out in straight lines.
Putty knife or spatula. Either one of these items is handy for
blocking out seedlings when transplanting and can also be used for cleaning
tools.
Small hand sprayer and duster. You need these tools to keep insects
and diseases under control.
Trowel. One of the handiest garden gadgets, it is useful for transplanting
and for loosening soil around plants.
Dibble. This short, round, pointed stick is used to make holes
for transplanting seedlings and to firm the soil around the plant roots.
Wheel hoe and attachments. A wheel hoe is useful for controlling
weeds and for making furrows for deep seeded crops.
Following these simple guidelines will keep your tools in good condition.
Clean tools after each use. A putty knife is good for scraping off dirt. If tools get rusty, soak them in kerosene for a few hours, then use a wire brush or fine sand to scrub off the rust.
Keep cutting tools sharp.
Have a special place for storing tools, where you can hang them up
out of the way to prevent damage to both you and to them. Keep tools
in a dry place to prevent rust.