GARLIC
Production Principles and Tips

Planting

Earlier planting means higher yield potential. September to November planting is optimum. Early spring planting is okay, but smaller bulbs will result.
Size of cloves planted is directly related to the size of the bulbs harvested.
If saving your own seed, save the largest, "best" bulbs and cloves. If you are buying seed, learn the cultural history of the garlic and the field in which it was grown. Use "Virus-Free" seed, if possible.
Plant immediately after "cracking." Individual cloves do not keep long, due to disease susceptibility and desiccation.
Cover the top of each clove with ½ to 2 inches of soil, depending on winter temperatures (colder winter requires deeper planting).

Weeds are frequently the worst problem. Avoid, prevent and control them.
Garlic is a moderate user of nitrogen; it may or may not require phosphorus, depending on the soil; it rarely responds to potassium; and, it rarely requires micronutrients.
Apply up to one-half of the nitrogen at planting time, and the remainder in two or three later sidedressings. If using drip irrigation, more continual feeding is recommended. Do not apply nitrogen during the last 60 days before harvest.
A good compost program will usually supply all of the micronutrients necessary and maintain a good balance among them, regardless of initial soil status.
Garlic prefers high soil moisture levels, but not saturated. Total water use is approximately 15 inches.
Quantity and frequency of irrigation depends on soil type and depth. Garlic roots will grow to 4-5 ft. in deep, heavier textured soils.
Use pre-plant irrigation and/or winter rainfalls to assure the soil profile is at field capacity by early spring.
Timing of final irrigation is critical to optimize yield and quality, and to prevent basal plate rot.
Garlic can grow in a wide range of soil textures and soil pH. Fertilization, irrigation, and harvest practices may be different for each combination of situations.
Diseases to watch for include Fusarium basal rot, purple blotch, white rot and stem and bulb nematode. Insects to watch for include mites and cutworms.

Maximum yield and optimum bulb quality for fresh market use are generally contradictory. Thus, compromise decisions must be made.
Begin harvest process -stop irrigation - when all cloves in a bulb show develoment, and a minimum of three to five wrapper leaves remain.
Dry the bulbs on top of the ground with tops attached for several days, shading them with leaves from other plants, if possible. If rainfall or heavy dues are probable, try to dry the bulbs in a protected area.
If braiding, do so while tops still have moisture and are flexible. Rewetting of dry leaves is also possible, but usually less satisfactory.
The longer the tops stay on, the longer the storage life. Air movement is essential.
Store as cool and dry as possible. Relative humidity must be below 70% to prevent mold and/or root sprouting. The lower the temperature, the longer the storage life. Storage at high temperatures (e.g. room temperature) is satisfactory, but for shorter periods.